Showing posts with label change. Show all posts
Showing posts with label change. Show all posts

Saturday, May 18, 2013

How to Change the Brake Light Switch on a BMW


1. Climb down into the drivers side foot well area and pull the cotter pin out from the retaining pin that connects the brake pedal to the brake booster assembly. Use a pair of pliers.
2. Slide the brake booster-to-brake pedal retaining pin out of the brake booster mounting bracket. This will disconnect the brake pedal from the brake booster.
3. Lift up on the brake pedal and unplug the electrical connector running to the brake light switch behind the brake pedal.
4. Unbolt the bolts holding the brake light switch to the firewall and pull the switch off the firewall.
5. Install the new switch. Installation is the reverse of removal. When replacing the retaining pin that connects the brake pedal to the brake booster, slide the cotter pin through the small hole in the end of the pin and bend the cotter pin back over the retaining pin. This will secure the retaining pin in place and prevent it from accidentally sliding out of the brake booster mounting bracket.

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

How to Change the Fuel Filter on 2001 Passat


1. Park the Passat on a flat surface. Raise the rear with the floor jack and lower it securely onto jack stands. You can also drive the back tires up on ramps to gain access to the filter. Never work under a car when it is only supported by a floor jack.
2. Locate the skid panel that protects the underside of the car; it is on the drivers side at the back of the car. Remove the four nuts around the perimeter of the panel with a socket and a ratchet. Remove the Phillips screw in the middle of the panel. Set the panel out of the way.
3. Remove the two bolts that hold the bracket for the fuel filter. The filter is cylindrically shaped. Squeeze the bracket with your hand once the two bolts are removed to loosen and remove the bracket. The filter should fall free.
4. Squeeze the fuel line from the gas tank that goes into the filter with the vise grips to prevent fuel from spilling when it is removed. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the fuel lines to the filter on either side, one that comes from the tank on one side and one that comes out of the filter on the other side that goes to the engine. Depending on the type, the clamps may be loosened with a screwdriver or by squeezing them together with a pair of pliers.
5. Install the new filter with the arrow on the filter facing toward the engine. Slide the fuel lines onto the filter on either side and tighten the hose clamps. Reinstall the fuel filter bracket with the two bolts and the screw that hold it on. Reinstall the skid panel. Start the engine to make sure there are no leaks. Lower the car back to the ground or drive it down off the ramps.

Tuesday, May 14, 2013

How to Change an 039 04 Audi A4 Headlight


Headlight Bulb Removal
1. Open the Audis hood and remove the rubber headlight cover off the back of the headlight housing by hand.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector attached to the rear of the headlight retainer by pulling it gently rearward.
3. Squeeze the headlight bulb retaining tabs together and pull the retainer out of the headlight housing. The bulb will come out of the housing along with the retainer.
4. Twist the bulb counterclockwise so the tabs at the base line up with the slots in the retainer and then pull the bulb out.
Headlight Bulb Installation
5. Remove the new bulb from its packaging, taking care not to touch the glass part with your bare hands. Align the retaining tabs on the bulb with the slots in the retainer and then twist the bulb clockwise into place.
6. Install the bulb and retainer into the headlight housing, squeezing the retaining tabs together while pushing it into place.
7. Replace the electrical connector into the fitting and seat the rubber light assembly cover by pushing it into place with your fingertips.
8. Turn the ignition and headlights on to test the new bulb.

How to Change Brakes on an Audi


1. Place a brick firmly behind each rear wheel to prevent rolling.
2. Raise the front end of the car with a jack and place jack stands underneath the car to secure it.
3. Use a tire iron to remove the lug nuts.
4. Pull the wheels off of the car and set them aside.
5. Use a ratchet wrench and socket to remove the two bolts on the back of the caliper that are keeping it in place. In most Audis, these bolts need 7 mm sockets.
6. Pull the caliper housing off of the rotor, but be careful not to pull off the brake fluid line. Disconnecting this line will make the whole process much more difficult and messier.
7. Inspect the rotor to make sure that it is not warped and has no notches or grooves in it. You can do this by running your hand across the back and the front of the rotor, but make sure the rotors have had an hour or so to cool. If the rotors feel damaged in any way, they will need to be shaved or changed.
8. Take out the old brake pads from the caliper and discard them. Many Audis use an adhesive to keep the pads onto the calipers; if that is the case on your car, you will need to pry them out.
9. Use a brake caliper tool push the piston in the caliper back into place. Doing so will make room for the new, thicker brake pads.
10. Put the new brake pads into the caliper and place the caliper back onto the rotor.
11. Bolt the caliper back into place.
12. Lower the front end of the car, and move the bricks from the back wheels to the front of the front wheels to keep the car from rolling forward.
13. Raise the back end of the car with a jack. Place a set of jack stands underneath the rear end to keep it secure.
14. Use a tire iron to remove the lug nuts on the rear wheels and remove the wheels.
15. Remove the two bolts behind the caliper housing and pull off the caliper. In some newer Audis, the piston is controlled electronically, and as a result it will keep pressure on the rotor. In order to retract the piston, you will need a tool known as a VAG tool. If you have this tool, use as directed to retract the piston, if you do not, purchase it or have your brakes changed by a professional.
16. Remove the brake pads from the caliper and replace them with the new ones, using a brake caliper tool to push back the piston if it is not electronically controlled.
17. Inspect the rotors by hand to make sure they are free of warps, notches or grooves.
18. Place the caliper back onto the rotor and bolt it into place.
19. Put the wheels back onto the car and bolt them in securely.

Monday, May 13, 2013

How to Change Flat BMW Tires


1. Place the lug nut wrench on each lug nut one at a time. Apply counterclockwise, downward force with your foot to loosen each lug nut. BMW wheels generally each have five lug nuts. Loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up so that the wheel does not spin while suspended in the air.
2. Place the jack under the chassis of the BMW closest to the tire that needs to be replaced. The jack should be placed on a hard, even surface so that it holds the car up sturdy enough for the tire to be replaced.
3. Jack the car up so that it is suspended 6 to 8 inches off the ground.
4. Remove the lug nuts and place them on the side to be used later on once the new tire is in place.
5. Remove the new tire from the trunk or underneath the vehicle as stated in the BMW owners manual for that model. Place the flat tire in the trunk.
6. Place the new tire on the BMW and screw in the lug nuts by hand so that they hold the wheel in place while the car is jacked down. Jack the car down and place the jack back in the designated area of the vehicle.
7. Tighten the lug nuts using the lug nut wrench. Place the wrench back in the designated area of the vehicle. Drive to the nearest service station to have the flat tire repaired.

How to Change VW Rear Brake Pads


1. Park your VW on a flat, level surface. Loosen, but do not remove, the lug nuts that hold the rear wheels with a tire iron or lug wrench. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a high-quality floor jack and lower it onto jack stands placed on either side of the car. Never work on a car that is supported only by a floor jack, for safety reasons.
2. Finish removing the lug nuts on either side of the car, then pull the wheels off of the hubs and set them aside. Spray brake cleaner on the brake components, including the brake caliper, rotor and nearby components. Wipe everything down with a clean rag.
3. Locate the brake caliper bolts, also called caliper pins. These face the wheel well and are located on the top and bottom of the caliper. Use the appropriately sized socket or hex wrench to loosen and remove the bolts. The type and size of bolt will vary depending on the year and model of VW. You may also need to hold an open-ended wrench on the inboard side of the nut to help loosen it. Remove the large spring clips on the outside of the caliper with pair of pliers, if your calipers have them.
4. Slide the caliper off of the rotor. Support the caliper on a platform or tie it to the suspension with a piece of wire so that there is no weight on the soft brake line, which could potentially damage it. Disconnect the wire for the brake pad wear sensor; older VWs will not have this sensor. Remove the old brake pads from the caliper. Depending on the model, the pads may also still be attached to the brake caliper bracket.
5. Remove the lid for the brake master cylinder in the engine bay or in the case of the VW Bug (not the new Beetle) in the front trunk. Remove a small amount of the brake fluid with a syringe so that it does not overflow when the piston in the caliper is compressed. On newer VWs, the caliper piston is compressed by placing a special caliper tool on the piston and then turning the tool to compress the piston in the caliper. On older VWs, you can simply use a C-clamp. Place an old pad on the piston, and compress the piston with the clamp to make room for the new, thicker pads.
6. Install the new brake pads in the same orientation that the old ones were installed. Reconnect the brake pad wear sensor, if applicable. Slide the caliper back over the rotor. Install and tighten the brake caliper bolts. Reinstall the caliper spring clips with a pair of pliers. Repeat the above steps for the other side of the car. Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Fill the brake fluid reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Pump the brakes until the pedal feels firm.

Wednesday, May 8, 2013

How to change Inner tie rod end on Audi A6 quattro


1.
Jack up the car, remove the wheels, and remove the outer tie rod end. If your unsure, check my how to guides on them. Links are at the bottom of the page under additional resources.
2.
There will be 2 clamps holding the inner tie rod end boot. The small inner clip is a pinch clip that you can remove with your fingers. The inner clamp requires a flat head to undo the clamp.
3.
The parts to be replaced. I decided to change my outer tie rod end as well. I used the Lisle 45750 Inner tie rod end tool which cost about $60 at amazon.com
4.
Make sure the tie rod end tool comes with a 1 1/2 (38.4mm) crows foot. This should fit your inner tie rod end.
5.
Fit the crows foot on the inner tie rod end
6.
Slide the inner tie rod end tool in and lock in the crows foot. Attach a ratchet to the end of the tool and turn counter clockwise to remove the inner tie rod end.
7. You can reuse the outer pinch clamp of the boot, but the inner large clamp will need to be replaced. Installation is everything in reverse, and you are all done!